Hiking Oahu

I lived in Hawaii for 8 months.

Before I moved to Oahu my main goal was to explore the many beaches and find the best waterfalls. It wasn't until I landed on the island for the first time and saw the Ko'olau mountain range that I realized hiking was going to be a major part of my life there.

Most visitors to Honolulu spend their time in and around Waikiki. They go snorkeling at Hanauma Bay and hike to the top of Diamond Head. Some might rent a car, visit Pearl Harbor, drive through Haleiwa on the North Shore and stop by the Dole Pineapple Plantation. 

A lot of people only have a few days in Hawaii and they just want to relax away from their jobs back home. That's ok! But if you do have some extra time to look around, here are some hikes that are unbelievably beautiful, rewarding, and maybe life changing.

From Honolulu, the Pali and LikeLike Highways take you up and through the Ko'olau range. Instead of hiking all day to get spectacular views, some of these trails already start at a high elevation and only take about an hour to complete. The Pali Notches can be pretty dangerous. But if you have basic bouldering skills and approach the two notches with a careful concentration, you should be fine.

It starts steep but doesn't take too long. Be very careful and don't trust the ropes. If that doesn't satisfy your adrenaline fix or you want an even better view, then you can keep following the ridge line up to the Chimney on your way to K1 and K2. 

The Pali Puka is a good introduction to ridgeline hiking. However it isn't for the faint of heart. The constant wind blowing up the steep cliffside makes this hike feel pretty intense. It is a helpful reminder to stay focused because it's easy to get distracted by the scenery and make a miscalculated step.

You can avoid the very edge by hiking through the trees on a makeshift trail. It takes less than 30 minutes to reach the Puka and the views of the windward coast are incredible.

On the SouthEastern tip of Oahu you will find the Makapu'u Point Lighthouse Trail. It is widely regarded as one of the best places to watch the Humpback whales frolic in the early months of the year. At the end of the 25-40 minute walk you will reach the light house where you can see for miles down the East coast of Oahu.

Close to the top you can also take a side excursion down to the Makapu'u tide pools, which is a nice place to hangout and cool off while observing the rocky coastline and powerful blowholes. Look for the whale information signs and you will see the start of the trail. 

Photo of a Photo by David Chatsuthiphan in the Honolulu-Star Advertiser

The most notorious hike on Oahu is undoubtedly the Haiku Stairs. More commonly known as Stairway to Heaven, this hike is as controversial as it is stunning. It is illegal to access but everyday hikers brave the sometimes near vertical stairs at the risk of getting fined by the police or falling. There's a guard that watches the entrance at random times throughout the day and night. Their job is to remind you that you're trespassing and to notify the police. 

As a result most people attempt the hike at night and come back down after sunrise. If you're caught you have to schedule a court date where you will be issued a fine. This can be very problematic if you're just visiting the island since your court appearance will be weeks or months later. 

There is an ongoing debate whether the stairs should be removed or preserved. Neighbors close to the entrance of the trail want them to be taken down because of the late night noise disturbances caused by groups of hikers. But you could argue that if the stairs were open, then hikers wouldn't be sneaking in at night in the first place.

Hopefully the state will decide to make the stairs legal and issue permits limiting the amount of people to a daily maximum, plus generating money to help maintain and make repairs to the stairs.  

Another incredible, yet illegal hike on Oahu is Sacred Falls. This is a sensitive one for the Hawaiian people. It is indeed a sacred place and they don't like people going there. However it used to be the most visited waterfall on the island until May 9, 1999, when a massive landslide killed 8 people and injured more than 40 others. The state got sued and had to pay out a multi-million dollar settlement to the victim's families. Ever since, the trail has been closed and anyone who trespasses risks receiving a severe fine. It is one of the coolest places on Oahu. That's the reason why you see helicopter tours buzzing overhead as you approach the falls. 

If you keep driving past Hanauma Bay and around Koko Head, you'll find the Koko Head Arch. This land bridge has been eroding for thousands of years and has become an impressive landmark resembling something out of Arches National Park. It's a quick 15 minute short hike. If you continue hiking past the arch it will connect with the ridge that leads to the top of Koko Head. 

The more popular hike on Koko Head.

The Upper Makua Cave is a good stop to make on your way out to Kaena Point on the west side of the island. It provides an excellent panorama of the Waianae mountain range and Yokohama Bay, which is also a good place to go swimming with the dolphins. 

There are a lot of loose rocks while you make your way up the valley so be careful. If the rock breaks here, don't be there, or you're gonna get drilled.  

My favorite and most accessible waterfall on the island is Lulumahu Falls. Coming from Honolulu on the Pali Highway, stop at the first big dirt parking area on your right. From the parking lot you will walk through the bamboo forest and follow the trail north until you reach the Nuuanu water reservoir. Across from the wall with the Menehune graffiti, there is a small concrete staircase next to a big water pipe. Go up the stairs and the trail continues past the chain linked fence. Then just follow the trail along the river until you reach the falls.

This is state owned land. And there are "no trespassing" signs but they're probably just there for liability reasons. Lulumahu is a popular hike and I've never heard of anyone getting a ticket.

Photo from @amandie_c

Mokoli'i is a small island across from Kualoa Regional Park. It is more frequently called China Man's Hat. I agree, not the proper nomenclature dude.

To get there you can rent a kayak or just paddle a surfboard over to it. From the distance the cone shaped island looks like the famous Kirkjufell mountain in Iceland. But up close, it has a few sandy beaches and a trail that circles the island eventually leading you to the top. The view of Oahu is incredible. And there's nothing better than having an island to yourself for the day. 

The Three Peaks of Olomana are very gnarly. Most people just hike to the top of the first one and don't go any further. That alone is a strenuous 3 hour trek. But if the weather is good and you have plenty of daylight, then continuing to the 2nd and 3rd peak is definitely a memorable adventure. This is one of the most dangerous hikes on the island. Due to the steep rocky descents, a fall can be fatal. Experienced hikers have died here in recent years. Please take the utmost precautions if you decide to go past the first peak.   

Ka'au Crater has a little bit of everything. Waterfalls, ridge lines, stream crossings, you name it. I love this hike. Deep in the Palolo Valley the trail starts at the end of the road past the Zen Center. It will lead you down to the river where you will cross and make your way through a series of waterfalls. Take a right at the top of the last one and you will quickly reach the crater. It's hard to believe this lush landscape was once an active volcano. 

The first time I went here I hiked around the entire crater. But the hike is already long enough as is, so I'd recommend taking the ridge line to the highest point then hiking down the same way. Bring a lot of water because this hike will take more than a half day. 

The ridge leading up to the top of Ka'au Crater.

Hamama Falls is an easy walk in Kaneohe. There's not much change in elevation, takes about an hour, and the road is paved for most of the way. Simply put, this is a great waterfall.  There is a no trespassing sign. But again, that's probably just so the state isn't liable if you get hurt on the trail. If you get stopped by a state employee just smile and be respectful. 

A plate of Loco Moco from Harry's Cafe is my hiking fuel of choice

Poamoho is a 7 mile roundtrip hike in the Ewa Forest Reserve. It's part of the Na Ala Hele Hawaii Trails system. This trail requires a permit which you can apply for at the Department of Land and Natural Resources. You tell them the date you want to go and they will provide you with the gate combinations and a physical permit to put on your vehicle.

The dirt road leading up to the trailhead is a fun little trip in itself. At the end of the trail is in my opinion the best lookout point on the whole island. One of the most untouched natural spots on Oahu.

Seeing the Albatross at Kaena Point is like watching a Planet Earth episode being filmed right before your eyes. These birds nest here coincidentally during the same time as the Humpback whale's migration to the islands. They have a huge wingspan and a hilarious mating ritual.

Kaena Point's natural environment also offers a great refuge for the Hawaiian Monk Seal to rest from their arduous life in the ocean. Keep your distance and try your best not to disturb this delicate habitat. You can hike to the point from both the West side or the North Shore. Both trails follow the coast and are flat. This is also a great place to watch the sunset.  

Looking back at the West side from Kaena Point.

Being able to explore and get to know Oahu has been a series of fulfilling and fortunate events. These natural places I was able to witness possess many symbolic connections into Hawaiian culture. I encourage all future visitors to research them further in order to enhance your understanding and appreciation of this special island.

When traveling to new places, expectations are always different from what we actually experience. I hope this summary introduces new ideas for you to experience Oahu in a way you never expected.  

Byodo-In Temple